Ball Python
(Python regius)
Adult Size: 4-6 feet     Lifespan: 20+ years

Did You Know:

  • The ball python gets its name because it curls up in a ball when threatened.

  • Female ball pythons are considerably larger than males.

  • Both males and females have small claw-like “anal spurs,” near the end of their
    tails. These are thought to be the remainders of hind legs.

The material below is a general guideline, and is not intended to serve as your sole source of pet care information. Visit a veterinarian trained in caring for reptiles and consult a broad range of literature to ensure that your pet receives adequate care.
 

Things You Should Know About Ball Pythons

They're Not That Big:

Although small by Python standards, Balls certainly aren't pipsqueaks. They can grow up to five or six feet. However, a size of four feet is far more typical. When raised in captivity, Ball Pythons will grow about one foot a year for their first three years.

They Live Long:

A well cared for pet Ball Python can make it well into his or her twenties. Some may live even longer. There have been reports of Ball Pythons reaching almost 50.

Enclosure:
They're Easy To House:

Ball Pythons do well in a variety of plastic and glass enclosures. A 20-gallon aquarium tank is adequate for a young Ball Python, but an adult should be kept in a 40-gallon tank (at least 38" x 18" x 16") to allow the space needed for essential temperature gradients. Very young snakes can be started in a smaller tank, where they will feel more secure, then moved into a larger enclosure. Any enclosure used to house a Ball Python should have a very secure top, since these powerful snakes are clever escape artists. Adequate ventilation must also be provided with any enclosure. This is typically done with a secure wire mesh top.
They Need Sanctuary: A Ball Python's tank must include at least one -- and preferably two -- hide boxes that provide the snake with a safe and secure sanctuary. If two hide boxes are used, one should be located in the hot area and the other in the cooling area of the tank. Hide boxes are important for hatchlings and young snakes, especially if they are in "adult-sized" enclosures.

Substrate:
They Like A Variety Of Substrates:

It's a good idea to start juvenile Ball Pythons off with a newspaper, since it's simple to maintain -- just discard when soiled. Newspaper also makes it easier to spot parasites and check the young snake's feces for signs of potential problems. Good substrates for adult Ball Pythons include cypress bark (it absorbs moisture well and helps maintain humidity levels), as well as sterilized mulch and Astroturfä. Avoid cedar; its oils promote respiratory ailments. Pine and aspen substrate can cause problems if ingested. Any substrate should be monitored closely and discarded or cleaned when soiled. 

Temperature:
They Like It Hot:

Ball Pythons must be provided with a range of temperatures in their housing, ranging from the low 80s at one end of the tank to the mid to upper 80s at the other. This should include a basking spot in the 85-90°F degree range. The temperature can be lowered to the upper-70s at night, provided a warmer basking area (around 80°-82°F) is also provided. Maintaining proper temperature levels is essential, so the snake's housing should have at least two and preferably three thermometers, one to monitor the basking spot and the others to monitor the cool and warm areas in the rest of the tank. An alternative is to have a thermometer in one area of the tank and a probe in the other. Important - see the Note About Day/Night Light Cycles and Heating below.
They Shouldn't Be Exposed To Direct Heat Sources: Ambient temperature can be maintained by using a heat mat beneath one half the tank's surface. (The section of the tank that is farthest away from this mat will be the cool area.) Ceramic heating elements that move heat downward without emitting light are also good heating source. Temperature in the basking area can be maintained using an incandescent light bulb in a reflective hood. The light bulb should be screened to protect the snake from burns. Never use a heat rock in the tank. Ball Pythons are very susceptible to skin burns when they come into direct contact with a heat source. A rheostat or thermostat is a good idea for regulating heat mats and lamps.

Lighting:
It's Simple To Provide Them With The Right Lighting:

It's simple to provide them with the right lighting – Ball Pythons should be exposed to supplemental UVB light for 10-12 hours, using a fluorescent bulb designed for snake enclosures. Important - see the Note About Day/Night Light Cycles and Heating below.

Note About Day/Night Light Cycles and Heating:

his pet must have distinct day and night periods in its enclosure to maintain its biological rhythms. (See the lighting entry above for the specific length of this animal’s day/night cycle.) The day period must be light; and night must be dark. A timer should be used to set day/night periods. If a heat source is required to maintain correct nighttime temperatures, use heat mats or strips mounted below or on the side of the tank, infrared heat lamps, ceramic heat emitters, or a combination of these products. This will allow the enclosure to be heated while remaining dark. Follow directions carefully with all products. If ceramic heat emitters are used always choose fixtures with porcelain or ceramic sockets and to protect against fires do not place them by dry wood or flammable fabrics. Ceramic heat emitters must be kept out of the reach of children and all pets, including dogs and cats.
Humidity:
Levels In Their Tanks Should Be 45-60 Percent:		 Humidity levels that are too low promote respiratory stress, while levels that are too high can lead to skin infections. Water bowls often provide sufficient humidity in a glass tank. However, humidity levels can be increased by misting the tank occasionally with chlorine-free water, but care should be taken to avoid over-misting. A hygrometer should be used to measure humidity levels. It is especially important to maintain adequate humidity during shedding periods.
Diet:
Rodents Are Their Favorite Meal:		 The Ball Python's diet consists of rodents (feeder mice or rats. Rodents can be given to the snake live or frozen. A live rodent should never be left with a Ball Python unsupervised, since it can injure the snake. Frozen rodents should be thawed to room temperature (never heated) before feeding. There are advantages to feeding frozen thawed over live food. Young Ball Pythons should be fed pink to fuzzy baby mice, while adults are given adult rodents. No snake should be given food that is wider than it is at its widest point. Tongs or long-handled forceps should be used to place a feeder animal (live or pre-killed) in a snake's enclosure. Feeder animals should never be given by hand. Snakes identify prey by scent, and they are liable to attack a hand that has the smell of a feeder animal on it.
They Have A Feeding Schedule: Young, growing Ball Pythons (under 30") should be fed once or twice a week. Larger snakes can be fed once every 10-14 days. Feed 1-2 appropriately sized rodents per meal.Ball Pythons tend to eat less in the winter. It is important to maintain the correct temperature in the tank after a snake has eaten. A snake should not be handled for at least one day after taking food. A veterinarian should be consulted if a Ball Python has not eaten in 30 days. A Ball Python should be allowed to get acclimated to its new environment for a week before it is fed. A gravid (pregnant) female may not eat until the eggs are laid. (A female may lay eggs even when no male is present, but in these cases they will be infertile.)
A NOTE ABOUT WATER: All water given to this pet for drinking, as well as water used for misting, soaking or bathing must be 100% free of chlorine and heavy metals. (Not all home water filtration systems remove 100% of the chlorine and heavy metals from tap water, so check your system’s specifications before using it to filter water for your pet.) We recommend that you use unflavored bottled drinking water or bottled natural spring water and never untreated tap water. If tap water is used, you should treat it with a dechlorinating treatment or allow it to stand for at least 24 hours before being introduced to the pet's enclosure to allow the chlorine to escape. Do not use distilled water, which can cause severe medical problems, since it lacks minerals that are essential to important body functions.
They Should Always Have Access To Water: Fresh chlorine-free water should always be available to a Ball Python in a spill resistant bowl. Ball Pythons like to immerse themselves in water, and they sometimes defecate in it, so their water bowls should be checked and changed regularly throughout the day.

How to Handle A Ball Python:
Wash your hands before lifting a snake to remove the scent of any other animal. Lift a Ball Python gently with steady relaxed motions, placing one hand under the snake about one-third the way down its body, and the other hand under at about the two-thirds mark. Support the snake with your arms and body when carrying it. Do not grab or pinch the snake when carrying it. Allow the snake as much freedom of movement in your arms as possible, but do not let it wrap around anything other than your hands. Work from the tail to the head when unwrapping a snake. Ball getting ready to shed. A Ball Python that is handled too often may become reluctant to feed. Always wash your hands thoroughly after handling a snake. Never allow any snake to coil around your neck.

Bright Idea: A glass enclosure designed specifically for snakes offers the advantage of making it easier to maintain desired humidity levels -- it can be more difficult to maintain humidity in a tank with a screen top. If you sell Ball Pythons, you should be able to special order these enclosures for your customers or refer them to a source where they can buy these products.
 

Look Out For This:
In captivity, ball pythons can become finicky eaters. This is often caused by stress. Owners can encourage their pet to eat by changing the diet, and being sensitive to the animal’s privacy. Ball pythons often feel more comfortable eating in the dark.

Bright Idea:
 Increase the humidity level in a snake’s enclosure during the shedding period. You can tell when a snake is ready to shed its skin because its eyes will have a milky look, and its scales will become duller. A few days after you observe this, shedding will occur. When shedding begins, humidity
levels should be increased. Complications during shedding and incomplete sheds are typically caused by insufficient humidity. You can raise humidity by misting the cage or adding a humidity box. A humidity box is a snake safe container lined with moist moss or paper towels that have an access hole cut into it to allow a snake to enter. (Use chlorine-free water to moisten material in humidity box.) Ball Pythons should not be handled when they are shedding.
 

Recommended Ball Python Supplies:

  • Glass or plastic enclosure with secure lid

  • Heat mat

  • Heat lamp for basking area

  • Three thermometers

  • Substrate

  • Two hide boxes

  • Spill-resistant water bowl

  • Hygrometer

  • Feeder rodents (frozen)

  • UVB light source