The Basics:

Active, quick and high-strung, these beautiful, but delicate lizards are not recommended for the novice reptile keeper. Captive bred Brown Basilisks will be calmer and easier to keep than animals taken from the wild. Females tend to be calmer than males. With its whip-like tail, long toes and overlapping scales, the Brown Basilisk creates a distinct impression on all who see it. The males of the species have a high head crest and low back crest. Males will grow up to 3-feet in length (about half of it tail), while females are much smaller. Diurnal animals, Brown Basilisks are active during the day. In nature, males become territorial and can engage in ritualized dominance struggles. For this reason, two males should not be kept in the same enclosure. The Brown Basilisk
is closely related to the Green Basilisk, and the two have similar care requirements.

Enclosure:
They Need Space:

Active, fast, nervous, a great climber -- everything about the
Basilisk Lizard suggests that it be given as much enclosure space as practical. An adult should be housed in an enclosure that's at least 3-feet by 5-feet, with plenty of height for climbing. Glass aquariums can be used, but the glass should be opaque, or marked with taped paper to keep the Basilisk from crashing into it.

Places To Climb And Soak:

Basilisks are arboreal lizards, so they should be provided with
a variety of climbing branches with perches that are at least as wide as the lizard's body. In nature, Basilisks like to hide in vines and leafy branches. This should be replicated in
their enclosure by using artificial plants or non-toxic live ones. Basilisks should also have a deep dish of clean chlorine-free water in their enclosure, since they will sometimes like to soak. However, the enclosure should also provide plenty of places where the lizard can dry off. A Basilisk must be provided with spots where it can dry off completely, since skin that is wet too
often is prone to infections. The Basilisk's water bowl should be heavy and sturdy to protect against tipping over. Water bowls must be cleaned often, since Basilisks tend to
defecate in them.

Lighting:
UVB Lighting Is Absolutely Essential

Basilisks must be exposed to UVB lighting
10-12 hours a day. This exposure is critical in allowing the animal to synthesize vitamin D3 and absorb calcium. If a Basilisk isn't exposed to an adequate level of UVB lighting,
it will develop a metabolic bone disorder. Specialized reptile lighting should be used, instead of plant or aquarium lighting, to provide these essential ultra violet rays.
Fluorescent tubes producing UVB rays should be replaced every six months. Glass blocks out UVB light, so overhead light sources should be kept behind a wire mesh
cover, not a glass or acrylic tank top. This light source should be within 12 inches of the animal. Important - see the Note About Day/Night Light Cycles and Heating below.

Temperature:
Think Tropical:

Being tropical animals, Brown Basilisks require enclosures
that are hot and relatively humid. Ambient temperatures should be in the low to upper 80s, with a basking spot 5º-10º higher. Night temperatures should be dropped to
the mid 70s. A thermal gradient should be provided in the enclosure with a warmer and cooler area. This will allow the Basilisk to move around the enclosure to regulate body
temperature. Heat can be provided by a combination of lamps. Nighttime temperatures can be maintained by using non-light-producing heat emitters. Enclosure temperatures
should be monitored by three thermometers, one in the warmer zone, one in the cooler zone and one in the basking area. Important - see the Note About Day/Night Light Cycles and Heating below.

Note About Day/Night Light Cycles and Heating:

All reptiles, including this pet, must have distinct day and night periods in their enclosure to maintain their biological rhythms. (See the lighting entry above for the specific length of this animal’s day/night cycle.) The day period must be light; and night must be dark. A timer should be used to set day/night periods. If a heat source is required to maintain correct nighttime temperatures, use heat mats or strips mounted below or on the side of the tank, infrared heat lamps, ceramic heat emitters, or a combination of these products. This will allow the enclosure to be heated while remaining dark. Follow directions carefully with all products. If ceramic heat emitters are used always choose fixtures with porcelain or ceramic sockets and to protect against fires do not place them by dry wood or flammable fabrics. Ceramic heat emitters must be kept out of the reach of children and all pets, including dogs and cats.

Diet:
They Like Insects:

In captivity, a Basilisk's diet will consist mainly of insects such as crickets and mealworms. The insects fed to Basilisks should be gut loaded with fruits and carotene-rich vegetables and dusted with a supplement.  Adult Basilisks should be fed daily, or six times a week. Younger animals can be fed once or twice a day. Offer adults 24-26 appropriately sized crickets per meal (or a similar volume of other appropriate insects). Younger lizards should be offered 12-24 appropriately-sized crickets. In addition to insects, adults can be offered a pinkie feeder mouse on occasion. Young Basilisks will almost never eat plant matter, but many will accept dark leafy vegetables as part of their diet as adults. Insects and plant matter that are not consumed within three hours should be removed from the enclosure. Important -- It is necessary to provide calcium and vitamin supplements as part of the diet. Please read the supplement section below:

The following is a possible supplementing schedule for this reptile. About once a week, the insects offered to an adult Basilisk should be dusted with a vitamin and calcium supplement. (Hatchlings and breeding females should have their insects dusted every other feeding.) However, this is only a general suggestion -- the best specific schedule may vary depending on the supplement products used and other factors. Please consult product package directions, outside literature and a veterinarian to determine the optimal supplementing program.