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Chinese
Water Dragon
(Physignathus cocincinus)
Habitat:
Humid Tropical and Subtropical
Forests
Diet: Omnivorous
Adult Size: Females around 2
feet long, Males up to 3 feet
Lifespan: 10-20 years
Native To: Southeast Asia |
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Did
You Know:
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Also known as the Green
Water Dragon, this
semi-aquatic lizard likes to
bask on
a tree branch over a river,
so that when approached he
can jump into the water
and swim away from
predators.
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These strong swimmers can
remain underwater for up to
half an hour. They can
also run on their hind legs.
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Water Dragons have a light
sensitive “third eye” on the
top of their heads, visible
as a shiny spot about the
size of a pinhead. Known as
the parietal eye, it
controls
hormone production and helps
the animal regulate the
amount of time it basks in
the sun.
The material below is a general
guideline, and is not intended
to serve as your sole source of
pet care information. Visit a
veterinarian trained in caring
for reptiles and consult a broad
range of literature to ensure
that your pet receives adequate
care.
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Things You Should Know About The
Chinese Water Dragon |
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The Basics: |
Chinese Water Dragons
measure 4-5” at birth,
growing to 2-3’ by the
time they reach maturity
at two years of age.
Their skin color varies
from a very dark to a
lighter green, with
green or turquoise
stripes. The belly is
white or yellow, and the
throat yellow or orange.
A less common Australian
species of Water Dragon
is occasionally seen as
a pet. Brown in color,
the Australian Water
Dragon (Physignathus
lesueurii) has
similar care needs to
its Chinese counterpart. |
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Enclosure:
The Bigger,
The Better: |
While hatchlings can
live temporarily in a 20
gallon
tank, adults need an
enclosure with solid,
opaque sides measuring
at least 6’ long x 3’
wide x 5-6’ high. When
housed in an enclosure
that’s too small or made
of glass, Chinese
Water Dragons will
eventually rub the flesh
off their snouts trying
to get out. One glass or
screen mesh side in the
enclosure is acceptable, but the rest
of the sides should be
made from, or covered
with, something
non-reflective that they
can’t see through. |
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A
Place To Swim: |
At least a third of the
floor area should be
devoted to a pool of
chlorine-free water,, with
the water temperature
maintained around 77ºF.
Often the heating method
used to warm the
enclosure is enough to
keep the water at the
correct temperature, but
if necessary an
aquarium heater can be
used, or a heat mat can
be placed under the
pool. (Check the
manufacturer’s
instructions before
using any heating
appliance with a plastic
pool.) The pool should
be large enough for the
animal to submerge at
least the lower half of
its body. |
Substrate:
Keep It Easy
To Clean: |
These creatures can be
rather messy - though
some
owners prefer the
naturalistic look of
sterilized potting soil,
most appreciate the easy
cleanup offered by
Astroturf. Two pieces
cut to the correct size
can be switched out for
cleaning. It is also
possible to use paper
towels or butcher’s
paper, replacing as
necessary. If using
potting soil, a brand
without vermiculite or
perlite must be used. |
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Lighting:
They Need To
Soak Up The Ultraviolet
Rays: |
Chinese Water Dragons
need direct exposure to
UVB rays in order to
synthesize vitamin D3
and absorb calcium. If
not exposed to an
adequate level of UVB
lighting, they can
develop Metabolic Bone
Disease. UV lamps
specifically designed
for reptiles should be
used, and fluorescent
tubes should be replaced
every six months. Since
glass blocks UVB rays,
if the enclosure does
not have a screen mesh
top, overhead light
sources should be
mounted inside the
enclosure within 12
inches of the animal,
behind a sturdy wire
cover. To give the Water
Dragon a natural
day/night cycle, lights
should be left on for
10-12 hours during the
day and turned off at
night. Lighting should
never be left on
overnight – constant
light will cause the
animal severe stress.
Important - see the
Note About Day/Night
Light Cycles and Heating
below. |
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Temperature:
They Like
It Hot: |
Ambient temperature in
the enclosure should be
kept in the
80s during the day, with
a basking spot of
90-95ºF. At night, the
temperature can be
allowed to drop to the
mid to upper 70s.
Important - see the
Note About Day/Night
Light Cycles and Heating
below. |
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Note About Day/Night
Light Cycles and Heating: |
All
reptiles, including this pet, must have
distinct day and night periods in their
enclosure to maintain their biological
rhythms. (See the lighting entry above
for the specific length of this animal’s
day/night cycle.) The day period
must be light; and night must be dark.
A timer should be used to set day/night
periods. If a heat source is required to
maintain correct nighttime temperatures,
use heat mats or strips mounted below or
on the side of the tank, infrared heat
lamps, ceramic heat emitters, or a
combination of these products. This will
allow the enclosure to be heated while
remaining dark. Follow directions
carefully with all products. If ceramic
heat emitters are used always choose
fixtures with porcelain or ceramic
sockets and to protect against fires do
not place them by dry wood or flammable
fabrics. Ceramic heat emitters must be
kept out of the reach of children and
all pets, including dogs and cats.
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Diet:
Mostly Meat:
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In addition to crickets,
earthworms and
mealworms, adult Chinese
Water Dragons enjoy
eating feeder mice and
goldfish. Though mainly
carnivorous, they can
also eat some
vegetables, such as
shredded romaine lettuce
and collard greens, or
pieces of carrot, green
beans and sweet potato.
Adults should be fed
every 2-3 days and
babies should be fed
daily. Offer adults
12-24 crickets per meal
and babies 6-12
crickets.. All insects
should be dusted with a
reptile vitamin and
calcium powder, and “gut
loaded,” which entails
feeding the insects 48
hours before the Water
Dragon eats them. Never
feed the animal
wild-caught insects, as
they can transmit
disease. Important -- It
is necessary to provide
calcium and vitamin
supplements as part of
the diet. Please read
the supplement section
below: |
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Supplements: |
Dust
insects
with calcium supplement
and vitamin supplement.
As a rule, a growing
juvenile's food should
be dusted more often
than an adult's. Consult
product label, a
veterinarian and
outside literature for
specific instructions on
supplementing. Avoid
over-supplementing food.
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A NOTE ABOUT
WATER: |
All water given to this
pet for drinking, as
well as water used for
misting, soaking or
bathing must be 100%
free of chlorine and
heavy metals. (Not all
home water filtration
systems remove 100% of
the chlorine and heavy
metals from tap water,
so check your system's
specifications before
using it to filter water
for your pet.) We
recommend that you use
unflavored bottled
drinking water or
bottled natural spring
water and never
untreated tap water. If
tap water is used, you
should treat it with a
dechlorinating treatment
or allow it to stand for
at least 24 hours before
being introduced to the
pet's enclosure to allow
the chlorine to escape.
Do not use distilled
water, which can cause
severe medical problems,
since it lacks minerals
that are essential to
important body functions |
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Water: |
Though they already have
a large “swimming pool”
in their enclosure, most
Water Dragons will
rarely drink from
standing water,
preferring to lap
droplets of water from
leaves. When misting the
enclosure, be sure to
direct the spray onto
some large, flat leaves
within reach of the
animal and always use
clean, fresh
chlorine-free water. Humidity should
be kept at a constant
60-80% by misting the
enclosure. If the
enclosure is too dry,
the animal may have
trouble shedding
its skin. However,
always make sure the
basking area is dry. |
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How to Handle A Chinese Water
Dragon:
Approach the Chinese Water
Dragon calmly, and moving from
the lizard's side, grab
firmly around the neck with one
hand, and around the waist with
the other hand. Pull the
lizard toward you, and tuck its
rear legs and tail under your
elbow to restrain its
movement. Avoid holding the
lizard close to your face, and
point its mouth away from
you. Never handle a Water Dragon
by the tail, it could break off.
Always wash your
hands before and after handling
a Chinese Water Dragon.
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Look Out For This:
The Chinese Water Dragon is
suitable only for experienced
reptile
keepers. Water dragons do not
recognize glass as solid, so
they will
repeatedly bang and rub their
snouts on any glass sides of
their
enclosure in an attempt to get
through, or try to attack the
animal they
see in the reflection. If a
glass enclosure is used, its
sides should be
covered with a material that is
non-transparent and
non-reflective.
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Recommended
Chinese Water Dragon Supplies:
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A large enclosure,
non-transparent on three
sides
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A tub or large dish to
serve as a pool
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UVB emitting light
source
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Heat lamps, plus pool
heating if necessary
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Three thermometers, so
temperature can be
monitored at both ends
of the enclosure and in
the basking area
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A water thermometer for
the pool
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Hygrometer to measure
humidity
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Substrate
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Plants and sturdy
branches, real or
artificial
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Plant mister
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