Corn Snake
(Pantherophis guttatus)
Adult Size: 3-4 feet     Lifespan: 10-15 years

Did You Know:

  • The corn snake is found in forests and farmlands throughout much of the southern and eastern United States.

  • Most people believe the corn snake gets its name because its distinctive color pattern evokes images of maize corn. This pattern is not usually visible in young hatchlings.

  • Some corn snakes are called "red rat snakes" because of their orange-red hue.

The material below is a general guideline, and is not intended to serve as your sole source of pet care information. Visit a veterinarian trained in caring for reptiles and consult a broad range of literature to ensure that your pet receives adequate care.
 

Things You Should Know About Corn Snakes

They're Not That Big:

Hatchlings are usually 9-14 inches in length, and grow to 3-4 feet as adults. However, some corn snakes may reach a length of 5 feet

They Should Live 10-15 Years In Captivity:

Of course this assumes that they are cared for properly. There are also instances where corn snakes have lived much longer.

Enclosure:
They Need A Vertically Oriented Closure:

Corn snakes will thrive in a variety of glass and plastic enclosures. A hatchling can start out in a 20 gallon tank, but an adult should be housed in a tank that's at least 30 gallons or preferably larger. This tank should be vertically oriented, offering maximum height so the snake has plenty of climbing
opportunities. All tanks should be well ventilated and have a very secure lid to prevent escapes. A corn snake's enclosure should include at least one (and preferably two) hide
boxes to provide the snake with a safe and secure sanctuary. If two hide boxes are used, one should be placed in the warm area and another in the cooling area of the tank. Since
corn snakes enjoy climbing, branches should also be included in their enclosures.
Substrate:
They Like A Substrate They Can Burrow Into: 		Corn snakes will do well with a variety of substrates, including paper, reptile bark, Astroturf™, and aspen bedding. Most
corn snakes seem to enjoy burrowing into the substrate in their tanks. Cedar should never be used, since its oils are toxic to corn snakes.

Temperature:
The Temperature Shouldn't be Too Hot:

The corn snake's enclosure should offer the animal a thermal gradient, with a cooler and warmer spot. This will make it
easier for the snake to regulate its body temperature. Ambient temperature in the tank should range from 75-85F. A basking spot with temperatures around 90F can also be provided. However, care should be taken to ensure that corn snakes have access to a cool down area, since they do not fare well when exposed to high temperatures for prolonged periods. Temperatures can be lowered slightly at night, and the basking lamp turned off. A corn snake's enclosure should have at least two thermometers: one in the basking area,
and one elsewhere in the tank. Important - see the Note About Day/Night Light Cycles and Heating below.

They Are Suitable To Heat Burns:

Corn snakes are very susceptible to skin burns when
they come into direct contact with a heat source, so never use a heat rock in their enclosure. To heat their enclosure, place a heat mat below one-third to one-half the tank to provide the corn snake with a warming and cooling area. Temperature in the basking area can be maintained using an incandescent light bulb in a reflective hood. The light
bulb should be screened to protect the snake from burns. A rheostat or thermostat is a good idea for regulating heat mats and lamps.
They Don't Need A Humid Enclosure:  Next to many other snakes, the corn snake does not
require high humidity levels in its enclosure. A humidity level of around 50% will be healthy for a corn snake.

Lighting:
They Should Have Full Spectrum Lighting:

Corn Snakes should be exposed to supplemental UVB light 10-12 hours a day, using a fluorescent bulb designed for snake enclosures. Constant overhead light will induce stress in a corn snake. Important - see the Note About Day/Night Light Cycles and Heating below.

Note About Day/Night Light Cycles and Heating:

All reptiles, including this pet, must have distinct day and night periods in their enclosure to maintain their biological rhythms. (See the lighting entry above for the specific length of this animal’s day/night cycle.) The day period must be light; and night must be dark. A timer should be used to set day/night periods. If a heat source is required to maintain correct nighttime temperatures, use heat mats or strips mounted below or on the side of the tank, infrared heat lamps, ceramic heat emitters, or a combination of these products. This will allow the enclosure to be heated while remaining dark. Follow directions carefully with all products. If ceramic heat emitters are used always choose fixtures with porcelain or ceramic sockets and to protect against fires do not place them by dry wood or flammable fabrics. Ceramic heat emitters must be kept out of the reach of children and all pets, including dogs and cats.

Diet:
They're Good Eaters:		 It's rare to find a Corn Snake that's a picky eater. Thanks to their voracious appetite, most Corn Snakes will accept thawed frozen feeder rodents quickly. This is healthier and safer for the Corn Snake. Hatchlings will start off eating pinkie mice that are 1-3 days old, then as the snake grows, it will graduate to fuzzies, hoppers, and small adults. Adult corn snakes will eat large mice and small rats. Adults should be fed 1-2 food items once every 7-10 days. Babies should be fed 1 food item every 5-7 days. Never leave a Corn Snake alone with live prey in its tank, since the feeder animal can turn on the snake, causing injury or even death. A Corn Snake should not be picked up for at least one day after eating. Always use a tongs or long-handled forceps to place a feeder animal in a corn snake's enclosure. Never offer feeder animals with your bare hand. Snakes identify prey by scent, and they are liable to attack your hand, if it has the smell of a feeder animal on it.
A NOTE ABOUT WATER: All water given to this pet for drinking, as well as water used for misting, soaking or bathing must be 100% free of chlorine and heavy metals. (Not all home water filtration systems remove 100% of the chlorine and heavy metals from tap water, so check your system's specifications before using it to filter water for your pet.) We recommend that you use unflavored bottled drinking water or bottled natural spring water and never untreated tap water. If tap water is used, you should treat it with a dechlorinating treatment or allow it to stand for at least 24 hours before being introduced to the pet's enclosure to allow the chlorine to escape. Do not use distilled water, which can cause severe medical problems, since it lacks minerals that are essential to important body functions
They Need A Steady Supply Of Water: Corn snakes should be provided with clean fresh chlorine-free water at all times. Water bowls should be spill resistant and deep enough for the snake to submerge its body.

How to Handle A Corn Snake:
The small size and amenable temperament of the Corn Snake make it relatively easy to handle. Adults should be held with two hands, their body given firm and steady support, and their head given as much freedom of movement as possible. A Corn Snake should not be handled for a day after eating or at the onset of a shedding period.
A snake that has just eaten, is getting ready to shed or is actually shedding should not be handled. Always wash your hands thoroughly after handling a snake.
 
 


Look Out For This:
Excellent climbers, corn snakes will often ascend trees in search of prey in the wild. As pets, they often like to push up against the cover of their enclosure. With this in mind, it's a good idea to avoid screen enclosure covers, since they can scratch a snake's face. You should also be sure that
all covers are secure and escape proof.

Bright Idea:
 Increase the humidity level in a snake’s enclosure during the shedding period. You can tell when a snake is ready to shed its skin because its eyes will have a milky look, and its scales will become duller. A few days after you observe this, shedding will occur. When shedding begins, humidity
levels should be increased. Complications during shedding and incomplete sheds are typically caused by insufficient humidity. You can raise humidity by misting the cage or adding a humidity box. A humidity box is a snake safe container lined with moist moss or paper towels that has an access hole cut into it to allow a snake to enter. (Use chlorine-free water to moisten material in humidity box.) Corn Snakes should not be handled when they are shedding.


Recommended Corn Snake Supplies:

  • Glass or plastic enclosure with secure lid

  • Heat mat

  • Heat lamp for basking area

  • Thermometers

  • Substrate

  • Hide box or other accessories that can be used as a hiding place

  • Climbing branches

  • Spill-resistant water bowl

  • Hygrometer

  • Feeder rodents (frozen)

  • UVB light source