Gopher Snake
(Pituophis melanoleucus)
Adult Size: 3-7 feet    Lifespan: Mid-teens

Did You Know:

  • The gopher snake has a large shield on its nose, which it uses to burrow into the
    ground.

  • When threatened, the gopher snake will vibrate its tail and issue a loud hiss that
    sounds like a rattlesnake's. The gopher will even flatten its head to make it look
    even more like a rattler.

  • The gopher, along with its cousins the bull snake and the pine snake are among
    the largest colubird snakes found in North America.

The material below is a general guideline, and is not intended to serve as your sole source of pet care information. Visit a veterinarian trained in caring for reptiles and consult a broad range of literature to ensure that your pet receives adequate care.
 

What You Should Know About Gopher Snakes

They Grow To An Impressive Size:

A gopher snake can reach an adult size of 3-9 feet depending on the species. The most typical size is roughly 6-feet.

They Are Fairly Long-Lived:

With proper care a gopher snake can live into its twenties,
depending on the species, but a lifespan reaching the teens is probably more common.

Enclosure:
They Have Simple Housing Requirements:

These adaptive snakes can be housed in a variety of enclosures. They should be kept in something the size of a 30-gallon aquarium tank, or larger for bigger species. Like most snakes, Gophers and related species are escape artists, so their enclosures should have a secure lid that provides adequate ventilation. Their enclosure should be free of sharp objects that can injure the snake.
A Hide Box Is Essential To Their Well-Being: Most snakes will appreciate having a hiding place in their enclosures, and gophers are no exception. In fact, a hide box is an absolute necessity for them. Gophers are shy snakes that can be stressed and even ill if their enclosure doesn't provide them with a private sanctuary. Ideally, they should have two hide boxes in their enclosures, one in the basking area and one in the cooling area.

Substrate:
They Like Substrate They can Burrow Into:

In nature, gopher snakes like to burrow. If they're given a substrate like commercial potting soil (soil taken from the
backyard will house bacteria that can harm a snake), aspen shavings or cypress mulch they will enjoy burrowing into it. However, this is not essential if they are provided with
a hide box. Other suitable substrates include butcher's paper, indoor/outdoor carpeting. To protect against a gopher ingesting chips or shavings, this snake should not be fed
directly on a substrate, with the exception of paper or carpeting. Instead, place the food on newspaper or cardboard. Although they have many endearing qualities, gophers are
not the neatest of snakes, so their enclosures should be checked regularly and moist or soiled substrate should be removed.

Climbing Branches Are Also Appreciated:

The versatile gopher snake will climb trees in
addition to burrowing, so if space permits sturdy climbing branches should also be included in the snake's enclosure.
Temperature:
Ambient Temperatures Of 75-85F Are Ideal For Them:  		Gopher snakes do not require temperatures as high as many other snakes. However, they are "cold blooded" animals who are unable to regulate their own body temperature so an external heat source must be provided. A heat pad should be placed under one-third of their tank to provide a thermal gradient with a warmer and cooler area. (Temperature should range from 75 to 85 degrees Fahrenheit.) A rheostat or thermostat can be used to control heat mats. At night, the temperature in a gopher snake's enclosure can drop
slightly -- to the low 70s. Temperature in the enclosure should not be allowed to go above 90F. Heat rocks should not be used, since they can burn the snake's skin. If potting soil is
used as a substrate, an under-tank heat pad might not provide sufficient heat for a warming area. In this case an outside heat source, such as a reflector and light bulb,
should be used. The temperature in a snake's enclosure should never be "estimated," it should be read by a thermometer placed one inch over the substrate. A gopher snake's enclosure should have two thermometers, one in the warmer area and one in the cooler area. Important - see the Note About Day/Night Light Cycles and Heating below.
A NOTE ABOUT WATER: All water given to this pet for drinking, as well as water used for misting, soaking or bathing must be 100% free of chlorine and heavy metals. (Not all home water filtration systems remove 100% of the chlorine and heavy metals from tap water, so check your system's specifications before using it to filter water for your pet.) We recommend that you use unflavored bottled drinking water or bottled natural spring water and never untreated tap water. If tap water is used, you should treat it with a dechlorinating treatment or allow it to stand for at least 24 hours before being introduced to the pet's enclosure to allow the chlorine to escape. Do not use distilled water, which can cause severe medical problems, since it lacks minerals that are essential to important body functions.
They Have Basic Water And Humidity Requirements: Gopher snakes go not need a very humid enclosure, but a large water bowl filled with chlorine-free water, that allows the snake to submerge itself should be available at all times. This bowl should be checked often to ensure that it remains clean. Many gophers will also appreciate an occasional misting during pre-shed and shedding periods.
Basic Lighting Is All They Require: Gopher Snakes should be exposed to supplemental UVB light 10-12 hours a day, using a fluorescent bulb designed for snake enclosures. Constant overhead light will induce stress in a gopher snake. Important - see the Note About Day/Night Light Cycles and Heating below.

Note About Day/Night Light Cycles and Heating:

All reptiles, including this pet, must have distinct day and night periods in their enclosure to maintain their biological rhythms. (See the lighting entry above for the specific length of this animal’s day/night cycle.) The day period must be light; and night must be dark. A timer should be used to set day/night periods. If a heat source is required to maintain correct nighttime temperatures, use heat mats or strips mounted below or on the side of the tank, infrared heat lamps, ceramic heat emitters, or a combination of these products. This will allow the enclosure to be heated while remaining dark. Follow directions carefully with all products. If ceramic heat emitters are used always choose fixtures with porcelain or ceramic sockets and to protect against fires do not place them by dry wood or flammable fabrics. Ceramic heat emitters must be kept out of the reach of children and all pets, including dogs and cats.

Diet:
Rodents Are Their Favorite Meal:

Pre-killed feeder mice and rats should be the staple
of the gopher snake's diet. Live feeder animals should be given to the snake only under the supervision of the handler. If the snake does not feed on a live animal promptly, it can
be injured, or even killed. Gopher snakes should be fed once every 7-10 days. Base meal size on the size of the snake. Start off hatchlings on pinkie mice.


How to Handle A Gopher Snake:
Wash your hands before lifting a snake to remove the scent of any other animal. Lift a gopher snake gently with steady relaxed motions, placing one hand under the snake about one-third the way down its body, and the other hand under at about the two-thirds mark. Support the snake with your arms and body when carrying it. Gophers will not wrap around a handler's arm, the way many snakes do. Instead, they seem to want to move in one direction. Allow the snake as much freedom of movement
in your arms as possible, giving free rein to the head, and gently guide it in the direction you want it to go. Do not grab or pinch the snake when carrying it. Never hold a gopher snake or any other snake close to your face. A snake that has just eaten, is getting ready to shed or is actually shedding should not be handled. Always wash your hands thoroughly after handling a snake.

Bright Idea:
It’s healthier to offer a hatchling smaller feeder animals more often rather than being given larger prey less frequently. The smaller animals are more digestible, so they provide the growing snake with more nutritional value.


Look Out For This:
In nature, the Gopher Snake defends itself from predators by imitating a rattlesnake. Pet Gopher Snakes will emulate this behavior and put on loud displays of hissing and rattling when a handler attempts to reach them. However, most Gophers calm down and grow accustomed to being handled. Gophers also like to “musk,” producing a very conspicuous odor.


 Bright Idea:
 Increase the humidity level in a snake’s enclosure during the shedding period. You can tell when a snake is ready to shed its skin because its eyes will have a milky look, and its scales will become duller. A few days after you observe this, shedding will occur. When shedding begins, humidity
levels should be increased. Complications during shedding and incomplete sheds are typically caused by insufficient humidity. You can raise humidity by misting the cage or adding a humidity box. A humidity box is a snake safe container lined with moist moss or paper towels that has an access hole cut into it to allow a snake to enter. (Use chlorine-free water to moisten material in humidity box.) Gopher Snakes should not be handled when they are shedding.


Recommended Gopher Snake Supplies:

  • Glass or plastic enclosure at least 20 gallons with secure lid

  • Heat Mat

  • A rheostat or thermostat to control heat mats

  • Thermometers

  • Substrate

  • Logs or other items for hiding areas

  • Spill-resistant water bowl

  • Hygrometer to measure humidity levels

  • Feeder rodents (frozen)

  • UVB light source