The Basics:

The ability to change colors is only one of the things
that make the Green Anole a fascinating lizard. It also has special adaptations on its toes that allow it to climb up smooth vertical surfaces. Males also have a pink fan of skin called a dewlap hanging from the neck that they extend during
courtship and territorial defense rituals. A diurnal lizard, the Green Anole is active during the day. It is also arboreal, and likes to spend much of its time on low-lying branches.
Males are territorial and should not share an enclosure, but can be housed with females if enough space is provided. Green Anoles should not be confused with the Brown Anole,
which is a different species, not a Green Anole that underwent a color change. However, Brown Anoles are closely related to Green Anoles, and have very similar care requirements.

Enclosure:
Space Contributes to Health :

A single Green Anole can be housed in a 10-
gallon glass tank, but this is not desirable. Having more space reduces stress and allows a proper thermal gradient to be provided. A single Green Anole, or a male-female pair
should be housed in at least a 20-gallon tank. An extra 10-20 gallons of tank size should be added for a third and fourth Green Anole. Since Green Anoles are arboreal, vertical
space should be provided for climbing. Any enclosure should have a secure lid that allows for ventilation. The enclosure should have wood for climbing and basking, as well
as overturned logs for hiding. In addition to climbing, the wood will provide an opportunity for the Green Anole to wear down its long nails, keeping them trim.

Plants Are Essential:

Every Green Anole's enclosure should have plants, either artificial silk ones, or safe real foliage. Green Anoles feel more secure living among plants. Acceptable plants for a Green Anole's enclosure include Pothos and Devil's Ivy.

Lighting:
UVB Required:

Green Anoles must be exposed to UVB rays. This exposure
is critical in allowing the animal to synthesize vitamin D3 and absorb calcium. If a Green Anole isn't exposed to an adequate level of UVB lighting, it will develop a metabolic
bone disorder. Fluorescent tubes designed for use with reptile enclosures will provide UVB light. If fluorescent lamps are used, they should be replaced every six months.
Glass blocks out UVB light, so overhead light sources should be kept behind a wire mesh cover, not a glass or acrylic tank top. Fluorescent light sources should be within 12 inches
of the animal. UVB lighting should be provided to the Green Anole on a 12-hour on/off cycle. A timer should be used to regulate these photoperiods. Important - see the Note About Day/Night Light Cycles and Heating below.

Temperature:
Moderate Heat:

The Green Anole's enclosure should have an ambient
temperature in the 75-80º Fahrenheit range during the day, and 65-75º at night. A warmer daytime basking area around 85º should also be provided. Providing a thermal gradient allows the Green Anole to regulate its body temperature by moving around the enclosure. Heat lamps and heat emitters can be used to maintain the desired thermal gradient, while a lamp can heat the basking spot. Non-light producing heat emitters can be used to achieve nighttime temperatures without disturbing the on/off light cycle. Since Green Anoles are arboreal, under-tank heat pads are not the best choice for heating their enclosure. Thermometers should be positioned in the warmer and cooler areas of the enclosure as well as in the basking spot. Enclosure temperatures should be monitored at branch level as well as ground level.  Important - see the Note About Day/Night Light Cycles and Heating below.

Note About Day/Night Light Cycles and Heating:

All reptiles, including this pet, must have distinct day and night periods in their enclosure to maintain their biological rhythms. (See the lighting entry above for the specific length of this animal’s day/night cycle.) The day period must be light; and night must be dark. A timer should be used to set day/night periods. If a heat source is required to maintain correct nighttime temperatures, use heat mats or strips mounted below or on the side of the tank, infrared heat lamps, ceramic heat emitters, or a combination of these products. This will allow the enclosure to be heated while remaining dark. Follow directions carefully with all products. If ceramic heat emitters are used always choose fixtures with porcelain or ceramic sockets and to protect against fires do not place them by dry wood or flammable fabrics. Ceramic heat emitters must be kept out of the reach of children and all pets, including dogs and cats.

The following is a possible supplementing schedule for this reptile. Insects should be dusted with a vitamin/calcium powder every other, or every third feeding. Adult Green Anoles should be fed 3-5 times a week, juveniles and ovulating females every day. However, this is only a general suggestion -- the best specific schedule may vary depending on the supplement products used and other factors. Please consult product package directions, outside literature and a veterinarian to determine the optimal supplementing program.

Humidity:
Keep It Very High:

A Green Anole will do best in an enclosure that has a
humidity level between 60 and 70 percent. This can be maintained by misting the enclosure once a day, or 2-3 times daily depending on local climatic conditions with chlorine-free water. (Humidifiers and foggers can also be used.) The humidity level in an enclosure can be measured with a hygrometer. Care should be taken not to over humidify an enclosure, since this can promote the growth of mold and compromise the health of a Green Anole.
A bowl of water should be kept in the Green Anole's enclosure. However, most Green Anoles will not accept water from a bowl, instead they will drink by lapping up droplets
that form on leaves and other surfaces.