Green Basilisk
(Basiliscus plumifrons)

Habitat
: Tropical Forest    Diet: Omnivorous    Adult Size: Up to 3 feet  
 Lifespan: 7-10 years or longer    Native To: Central and Northern South American

Did You Know:

  • Like other basilisk lizards, the Green Basilisk has the remarkable ability to run across the surface of water for considerable distances before sinking, and then swimming. It can also stay under water for 30 minutes to avoid would-be predators.
  • Up to two-thirds of the Green Basilisk lizard's body is tail. A male Green Basilisk will bob his head to attract the attention of a mate, and as a defensive measure when threatened.

The material below is a general guideline, and is not intended to serve as your sole source of pet care information. Visit a veterinarian trained in caring for reptiles and consult a broad range of literature to ensure that your pet receives adequate care.
 

Things You Should Know About The Green Basilisk

The Basics:

With bright green skin, a double crest on its head and a fin-like crest on its back and tail, the Green Basilisk is one of the most attractive lizards. Its appearance and behavior make it a fascinating lizard to watch, but it is not meant for people who want a pet they can hold. Wary and nervous, the Green Basilisk does not respond well to handling. It also requires a relatively large amount of space for its size, making it best
suited for experienced reptile keepers. This spectacular-looking lizard can reach up to three-feet in length (most of it tail), though most will be smaller. Female Green Basilisks
do not grow as large, and they lack the prominent fins seen in males. A Green Basilisk will reach sexual maturity within 18-24 months. Males should be separated before five months, since they are likely to fight. Although not the right lizard for everyone, Green Basilisks will do well when cared for properly, and may even live longer than ten years.

Enclosure:
A Safe Place With A Vertical Orientation
:

Green Basilisks are nervous animals that are likely to take off and run at full speed in their enclosure when frightened or
alarmed. In these cases, they can run directly into the glass of a tank, which apparently isn't readily visible to them. In light of this, it's a good idea to house them in a tank with
opaque glass or paper attached to sections of the glass. (This is especially true of younger and wild caught animals.) An enclosure of at least 60" x 16" x 36" should be used to
house a single adult, or a small group of one male and up to three females. Since Green Basilisks are arboreal, their enclosures should include large sturdy climbing branches.
Live plants are a good addition to an enclosure, since they mimic the lizard's natural environment and help maintain humidity levels. Acceptable plants include Pothos,
Philodendron and Dracena. Arranging plants in groups to provide a hiding place will make a Green Basilisk feel more secure. In addition to hiding places, the enclosure
should include basking spots. A Green Basilisk likes to be by water, so provide plenty of it with a large water bowl, and waterfall terrarium decoration. Always use water that is free of chlorine and heavy metals for water bowls and waterfalls. Never use distilled water or untreated tap water.

Substrate:
Humidity Retention, Easy Cleaning Essential:

Green basilisks will do well with a variety of substrates, including commercially prepared soil, mulch, peat moss, bark and reptile substrate mixes. Any substrate chosen must retain humidity without molding, and be easy to clean. A Green Basilisk's enclosure should have 2-3 inches of appropriate bedding. This will help maintain humidity levels and support live plants. This bedding should be cleaned daily, and replaced monthly. If a Green Basilisk shows a tendency to eat bedding, the substrate should be switched to something edible, paper or indoor/outdoor carpet.

Lighting:
UVB Lighting Is Absolutely Essential:
Basilisks must be exposed to UVB lighting 10-12 hours a day. This exposure is critical in allowing the animal to synthesize vitamin D3 and absorb calcium. If a basilisk isn't exposed to an adequate level of UVB lighting, it will develop a metabolic bone disorder. Specialized reptile lighting should be used, instead of plant or aquarium lighting, to provide these essential ultra violet rays. Fluorescent lamps producing UVB rays should be replaced every six months. Glass blocks out UVB light, so overhead light sources should be kept behind a wire mesh cover, not a glass or acrylic tank top. A fluorescent light source should be within 12 inches of the animal. Lighting should be on a 12 hour a day on/off cycle. A timer can be used to control lighting cycles. Important - see the Note About Day/Night Light Cycles and Heating below.

Temperature:
Thermal Gradient:

Although from Central America, Green Basilisks are
tolerant of relatively cool nighttime temperatures. During
the day, a thermal gradient should be provided, with one section of the enclosure being "cool" at about 75º, and the warmer basking area being 88º. Care should be taken to avoid making the basking area too hot, especially in smaller enclosures. At night, the temperature should be dropped to 70-75º. Important -- the temperature in their enclosure should never be allowed to go below 65º. A combination of lamps and heat emitters can be used to maintain the desired thermal gradient. Under tank non-light-producing ceramic heat emitters can be used to achieve nighttime temperatures without disturbing the on/off light cycle. Thermometers should be positioned in the warmer and cooler areas of the enclosure as well as in the basking spot. Important - see the Note About Day/Night Light Cycles and Heating below.

Note About Day/Night Light Cycles and Heating:

All reptiles, including this pet, must have distinct day and night periods in their enclosure to maintain their biological rhythms. (See the lighting entry above for the specific length of this animal’s day/night cycle.) The day period must be light; and night must be dark. A timer should be used to set day/night periods. If a heat source is required to maintain correct nighttime temperatures, use heat mats or strips mounted below or on the side of the tank, infrared heat lamps, ceramic heat emitters, or a combination of these products. This will allow the enclosure to be heated while remaining dark. Follow directions carefully with all products. If ceramic heat emitters are used always choose fixtures with porcelain or ceramic sockets and to protect against fires do not place them by dry wood or flammable fabrics. Ceramic heat emitters must be kept out of the reach of children and all pets, including dogs and cats.

Humidity:
Think Tropical
:

A Green Basilisk requires relatively high humidity levels in its
enclosure. At least 60-70%, and preferably higher, must be maintained. This can be accomplished by misting the enclosure once a day or every other day with chlorine-free water, and using live plants. A hygrometer should be used to measure humidity levels. Care should be taken not to create an enclosure environment that is too humid, since this will promote fungal infections and jeopardize the health of the Green Basilisk. Signs that an enclosure is too humid include: substrate that appears soaked or saturated, rather than just damp, and moisture build up on the sides of the tank.

A NOTE ABOUT WATER: All water given to this pet for drinking, as well as water used for misting, soaking or bathing must be 100% free of chlorine and heavy metals. (Not all home water filtration systems remove 100% of the chlorine and heavy metals from tap water, so check your system's specifications before using it to filter water for your pet.) We recommend that you use unflavored bottled drinking water or bottled natural spring water and never untreated tap water. If tap water is used, you should treat it with a dechlorinating treatment or allow it to stand for at least 24 hours before being introduced to the pet's enclosure to allow the chlorine to escape. Do not use distilled water, which can cause severe medical problems, since it lacks minerals that are essential to important body functions.
Water:
Always Provide A Full Water Bowl:
Green Basilisks love to be around water. Giving them constant access to a clean supply of chlorine-free water is essential to their good health. A large shallow water pan or a drip system should be provided. A commercially available reptile waterfall will also enhance the quality of a Green Basilisk's life. Water sources should be located in an easily accessible area of the enclosure and cleaned daily.

Diet:
Keep It Varied
:

The Green Basilisk does well eating a variety of commercially
available insects, including crickets, mealworms, grasshoppers and the occasional waxworm. Some Green Basilisks will also accept pinkie feeder mice, but these should be offered only as a special treat. Adult Green Basilisks should be fed vegetables/fruit 6-7 times a week and insects 3-4 times week (6-12 appropriately-sized insects per serving.) Young basilisks should be fed produce once a day and insects twice a day. (Offer young basilisks 6-12 appropriately sized insects.) All insects should be gut loaded before being offered to the lizard. Green Basilisks should also be offered dark leafy vegetables like collard, turnip and dandelions that are washed and cut. Small amounts of fruits such as bananas, figs and mangos can also be offered as an occasional treat. Important -- It is necessary to provide calcium and vitamin supplements as part of the diet. Please read the supplement section below

Supplements: Dust food with calcium supplement and vitamin supplement. As a rule, a growing juvenile's food should be dusted more often than an adult's. Consult product labels and outside literature for specific instructions on supplementing.

The following is a possible supplementing schedule for this reptile. Insects should be dusted with a supplement once or twice a week for adults. However, this is only a general suggestion -- the best specific schedule may vary depending on the supplement products used and other factors. Please consult product package directions, outside literature and a veterinarian to determine the optimal supplementing program.

How to Handle A Green Basilisk:
Like their relative the Brown Basilisk, Green Basilisks do not take to handling very well. These are pets that are better looked at than touched, since excessive handling will cause them stress. When removing the Green Basilisk for enclosure cleaning or a trip to the vet, great care should be exercised before handling the animal. Green Basilisks are very skittish and very fast, which makes it difficult to catch them should they escape. Approach the basilisk calmly, avoiding sudden, jerky motions, but take hold of it and lift it without hesitation. When lifting a Green Basilisk, support its head and neck with one hand, while lifting the torso with the other. The hand that supports the torso should also
restrain the tail. Always wash your hands before and after handling a basilisk.

Look Out For This:
Male Green Basilisks can become very aggressive with one another, and should never be housed in the same enclosure.


Recommended Green Basilisk Supplies:

  • A top-opening glass tank or other enclosure that offers height, with a secure top

  • UVB and UVA emitting light

  • Heating element to maintain enclosure temperatures

  • Three thermometers, so temperature can be monitored at both ends of the enclosure and in the basking area

  • Substrate

  • Large water dish

  • Live plants and climbing branches

  • Hiding areas

  • Hygrometer to measure humidity levels

  • Thermostat and rheostat to regulate heat