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Green
Basilisk
(Basiliscus plumifrons)
Habitat:
Tropical Forest
Diet: Omnivorous
Adult Size: Up to 3 feet
Lifespan: 7-10 years or
longer Native To: Central and
Northern South American |
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Did
You Know:
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Like other basilisk
lizards, the Green
Basilisk has the
remarkable ability to
run across the surface
of water for
considerable distances
before sinking, and then
swimming. It can also
stay under water for 30
minutes to avoid
would-be predators.
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Up to two-thirds of the
Green Basilisk lizard's
body is tail. A male
Green Basilisk will bob
his head to attract the
attention of a mate, and
as a defensive measure
when threatened.
The material below is a general
guideline, and is not intended
to serve as your sole source of
pet care information. Visit a
veterinarian trained in caring
for reptiles and consult a broad
range of literature to ensure
that your pet receives adequate
care.
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Things You Should Know About The
Green Basilisk |
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The Basics: |
With bright green skin,
a double crest on its
head and a fin-like
crest on its back and
tail, the Green Basilisk
is one of the most
attractive lizards. Its
appearance and behavior
make it a fascinating
lizard to watch, but it
is not meant for people
who want a pet they can
hold. Wary and nervous,
the Green Basilisk does
not respond well to
handling. It also
requires a relatively
large amount of space
for its size, making it
best
suited for experienced
reptile keepers. This
spectacular-looking
lizard can reach up to
three-feet in length
(most of it tail),
though most will be
smaller. Female Green
Basilisks
do not grow as large,
and they lack the
prominent fins seen in
males. A Green Basilisk
will reach sexual
maturity within 18-24
months. Males should be
separated before five
months, since they are
likely to fight.
Although not the right
lizard for everyone,
Green Basilisks will do
well when cared for
properly, and may even
live longer than ten
years. |
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Enclosure:
A Safe Place
With A Vertical
Orientation
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Green Basilisks are
nervous animals that are
likely to take off and
run at full speed in
their enclosure when
frightened or
alarmed. In these cases,
they can run directly
into the glass of a
tank, which apparently
isn't readily visible to
them. In light of this,
it's a good idea to
house them in a tank
with
opaque glass or paper
attached to sections of
the glass. (This is
especially true of
younger and wild caught
animals.) An enclosure
of at least 60" x 16" x
36" should be used to
house a single adult, or
a small group of one
male and up to three
females. Since Green
Basilisks are arboreal,
their enclosures should
include large sturdy
climbing branches.
Live plants are a good
addition to an
enclosure, since they
mimic the lizard's
natural environment and
help maintain humidity
levels. Acceptable
plants include Pothos,
Philodendron and Dracena.
Arranging plants in
groups to provide a
hiding place will make a
Green Basilisk feel more
secure. In addition to
hiding places, the
enclosure
should include basking
spots. A Green Basilisk
likes to be by water, so
provide plenty of it
with a large water bowl,
and waterfall terrarium
decoration. Always use
water that is free of
chlorine and heavy
metals for water bowls
and waterfalls. Never
use distilled water or
untreated tap water. |
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Substrate:
Humidity
Retention, Easy Cleaning
Essential: |
Green basilisks will do
well with a variety of
substrates, including
commercially prepared
soil, mulch, peat moss,
bark and reptile
substrate mixes. Any
substrate chosen must
retain humidity without
molding, and be easy to
clean. A Green
Basilisk's enclosure
should have 2-3 inches
of appropriate bedding.
This will help maintain
humidity levels and
support live plants.
This bedding should be
cleaned daily, and
replaced monthly. If a
Green Basilisk shows a
tendency to eat bedding,
the substrate should be
switched to something
edible, paper or
indoor/outdoor carpet. |
Lighting:
UVB Lighting
Is Absolutely Essential:
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Basilisks must be
exposed to UVB lighting
10-12 hours a day. This
exposure is critical in
allowing the animal to
synthesize vitamin D3
and absorb calcium. If a
basilisk isn't exposed
to an adequate level of
UVB lighting, it will
develop a metabolic bone
disorder. Specialized
reptile lighting should
be used, instead of
plant or aquarium
lighting, to provide
these essential ultra
violet rays. Fluorescent
lamps producing UVB rays
should be replaced every
six months. Glass blocks
out UVB light, so
overhead light sources
should be kept behind a
wire mesh cover, not a
glass or acrylic tank
top. A fluorescent light
source should be within
12 inches of the animal.
Lighting should be on a
12 hour a day on/off
cycle. A timer can be
used to control lighting
cycles. Important -
see the Note About
Day/Night Light Cycles
and Heating below. |
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Temperature:
Thermal
Gradient: |
Although from Central
America, Green Basilisks
are
tolerant of relatively
cool nighttime
temperatures. During
the day, a thermal
gradient should be
provided, with one
section of the enclosure
being "cool" at about
75º, and the warmer
basking area being 88º.
Care should be taken to
avoid making the basking
area too hot, especially
in smaller enclosures.
At night, the
temperature should be
dropped to 70-75º.
Important -- the
temperature in their
enclosure should never
be allowed to go below
65º. A combination of
lamps and heat emitters
can be used to maintain
the desired thermal
gradient. Under tank
non-light-producing
ceramic heat emitters
can be used to achieve
nighttime temperatures
without disturbing the
on/off light cycle.
Thermometers should be
positioned in the warmer
and cooler areas of the
enclosure as well as in
the basking spot.
Important - see the
Note About Day/Night
Light Cycles and Heating
below. |
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Note About Day/Night
Light Cycles and Heating: |
All
reptiles, including this pet, must have
distinct day and night periods in their
enclosure to maintain their biological
rhythms. (See the lighting entry above
for the specific length of this animal’s
day/night cycle.) The day period
must be light; and night must be dark.
A timer should be used to set day/night
periods. If a heat source is required to
maintain correct nighttime temperatures,
use heat mats or strips mounted below or
on the side of the tank, infrared heat
lamps, ceramic heat emitters, or a
combination of these products. This will
allow the enclosure to be heated while
remaining dark. Follow directions
carefully with all products. If ceramic
heat emitters are used always choose
fixtures with porcelain or ceramic
sockets and to protect against fires do
not place them by dry wood or flammable
fabrics. Ceramic heat emitters must be
kept out of the reach of children and
all pets, including dogs and cats.
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Humidity:
Think Tropical: |
A Green Basilisk
requires relatively high
humidity levels in its
enclosure. At least
60-70%, and preferably
higher, must be
maintained. This can be
accomplished by misting
the enclosure once a day
or every other day with
chlorine-free water, and
using live
plants. A hygrometer
should be used to
measure humidity levels.
Care should be taken not
to create an enclosure
environment that is too
humid, since this will
promote fungal
infections and
jeopardize the health of
the Green Basilisk.
Signs that an enclosure
is too humid include:
substrate that appears
soaked or saturated,
rather than just damp,
and
moisture build up on the
sides of the tank. |
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A
NOTE ABOUT WATER: |
All water given to this
pet for drinking, as
well as water used for
misting, soaking or
bathing must be 100%
free of chlorine and
heavy metals. (Not all
home water filtration
systems remove 100% of
the chlorine and heavy
metals from tap water,
so check your system's
specifications before
using it to filter water
for your pet.) We
recommend that you use
unflavored bottled
drinking water or
bottled natural spring
water and never
untreated tap water. If
tap water is used, you
should treat it with a
dechlorinating treatment
or allow it to stand for
at least 24 hours before
being introduced to the
pet's enclosure to allow
the chlorine to escape.
Do not use distilled
water, which can cause
severe medical problems,
since it lacks minerals
that are essential to
important body functions. |
Water:
Always Provide A
Full Water Bowl:
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Green Basilisks love to
be around water. Giving
them constant access to
a clean supply of
chlorine-free water
is essential to their
good health. A large
shallow water pan or a
drip system should be
provided. A commercially
available reptile
waterfall will also
enhance the quality of a
Green Basilisk's life.
Water sources should be
located in an easily
accessible area of the
enclosure and cleaned
daily. |
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Diet:
Keep It Varied: |
The Green Basilisk does
well eating a variety of
commercially
available insects,
including crickets,
mealworms, grasshoppers
and the occasional
waxworm. Some Green
Basilisks will also
accept pinkie feeder
mice, but these should
be offered only as a
special treat. Adult
Green Basilisks should
be fed vegetables/fruit
6-7 times a week and
insects 3-4 times week
(6-12
appropriately-sized
insects per serving.)
Young basilisks should
be fed produce once a
day and insects twice a
day. (Offer young
basilisks 6-12
appropriately sized
insects.) All insects
should be gut loaded
before being offered to
the lizard. Green
Basilisks should also be
offered dark leafy
vegetables like collard,
turnip and dandelions
that are washed and cut.
Small amounts of fruits
such as bananas, figs
and mangos can also be
offered as an occasional
treat. Important -- It
is necessary to provide
calcium and vitamin
supplements as part of
the diet. Please read
the supplement section
below |
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Supplements: |
Dust food
with calcium supplement
and vitamin supplement.
As a rule, a growing
juvenile's food should
be dusted more often
than an adult's. Consult
product labels and
outside literature for
specific instructions on
supplementing.
The following is a
possible supplementing
schedule for this
reptile.
Insects should be
dusted with a supplement
once or twice a week for
adults.
However, this
is only a general
suggestion -- the best
specific schedule may
vary depending on the
supplement products used
and other factors.
Please consult product
package directions,
outside literature and a
veterinarian to
determine the optimal
supplementing program.
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How to Handle A Green
Basilisk:
Like their relative the
Brown Basilisk, Green Basilisks
do not take to handling very
well.
These are pets that are better
looked at than touched, since
excessive handling will cause
them stress. When removing the
Green Basilisk for enclosure
cleaning or a trip to the vet,
great care should be exercised
before handling the animal.
Green Basilisks are very
skittish and very fast, which
makes it difficult to catch them
should they escape.
Approach the basilisk calmly,
avoiding sudden, jerky motions,
but take hold of it and lift
it without hesitation. When
lifting a Green Basilisk,
support its head and neck with
one
hand, while lifting the torso
with the other. The hand that
supports the torso should also
restrain the tail. Always wash
your hands before and after
handling a basilisk.
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Look Out For This:
Male Green Basilisks can become
very aggressive with one
another, and
should never be housed in the
same enclosure.
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Recommended
Green Basilisk Supplies:
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A top-opening glass tank
or other enclosure that
offers height, with a
secure top
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UVB and UVA emitting light
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Heating element to
maintain enclosure
temperatures
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Three thermometers, so
temperature can be
monitored at both ends
of the enclosure and in
the basking area
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Substrate
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Large water dish
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Live plants and climbing
branches
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Hiding areas
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Hygrometer to measure
humidity levels
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Thermostat and rheostat
to regulate heat
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