The Basics:

This toad is also commonly referred to as the Emerald Toad. There are two types of this toad: Bufo debilis is found in eastern regions of the US, and Bufo debilis isdidior populates the west. Both groups are very similar in size and behavior. The eastern species is bright green flecked with yellow and black spots, while the western variety is green to yellowish green with a net-like pattern of black lines on its back. Both have a flat head and body with warts on their back
to help them blend into their natural background. The warts also contain a poisonous substance that protects the toad from predators. The female's throat is lighter and the
male's is darker. Pet store specimens tend to be wild-caught animals. They are communal frogs. Males have a round vocal sac, which they use to chirp like crickets when they float
in the water or hide under cover near the water.

Enclosure:
Sharing Space is Ok With Them:

American Green Toads are non-aggressive, communal animals, which do well when housed together. Since they are small, up to four of them can be housed comfortably in a 20-gallon tank. The enclosure should contain rock, logs, cork bark, and thick leafed plants, such as pothos, for climbing and hiding places. Climbing branches should be at least as wide as the diameter of the toad's body. The tank should be securely covered with a screen top for ventilation.

Substrate:
They Like Burrowing Material:

Organic mulch, and non-aromatic wood chips work well as substrates, since this allows the American Green Toad to satisfy its need to burrow. Paper also can be used. Avoid aromatic wood substrates like cedar, since they
can cause serious and even fatal health risks. Substrates must be inspected daily, so soiled material can be removed.

Temperature:
Room Temperature Suits Them Fine:

If kept in a reasonably warm room, American Green Toads require no extra heating. The temperature in their enclosure
should be around 75 degrees Fahrenheit during the day, and slightly cooler at night. An under tank heater set to the lowest setting can be used in the winter to maintain tank temperatures. Follow manufacturer's directions carefully. In the summer, the toad's tank should be moved to a cool area of the home. Never place the tank in direct sunlight.
Temperatures that are too high can harm this toad. The temperature must be monitored carefully by using a thermometer. Important - see the Note About Day/Night Light Cycles and Heating below.

Lighting:
Limited UVB Exposure Is Essential:

American Green Toads should be exposed to a limited amount of UVB light daily provided on an on/off day/night cycle. Provide a low-output fluorescent reptile lamp designed for frog terrariums that emits UVB rays. The fluorescent bulb should be replaced every six months. Glass blocks out UVB light, so overhead light sources should be kept behind a wire mesh cover, not a glass or acrylic tank top. Important - see the Note About Day/Night Light Cycles and Heating below.

Note About Day/Night Light Cycles and Heating:

All reptiles, including this pet, must have distinct day and night periods in their enclosure to maintain their biological rhythms. (See the lighting entry above for the specific length of this animal’s day/night cycle.) The day period must be light; and night must be dark. A timer should be used to set day/night periods. If a heat source is required to maintain correct nighttime temperatures, use heat mats or strips mounted below or on the side of the tank, infrared heat lamps, ceramic heat emitters, or a combination of these products. This will allow the enclosure to be heated while remaining dark. Follow directions carefully with all products. If ceramic heat emitters are used always choose fixtures with porcelain or ceramic sockets and to protect against fires do not place them by dry wood or flammable fabrics. Ceramic heat emitters must be kept out of the reach of children and all pets, including dogs and cats.

Diet:
They Should Be Fed Every Other Day:

Gut loaded and dusted with supplements crickets, earthworms and beetles, along with the occasional mealworm and wax worm are all suitable foods for the American Green Toad. Adults should be fed every other day. Use common sense to determine portions; the toads should be filled out, but not bulgy. Juveniles should be fed pinhead crickets and small mealworms daily. Portion size for juveniles is 4-8 crickets per meal. Adult toads should be fed every 2 to 3 days. Adult portion size is 6-12 crickets per meal. Important -- It is necessary to provide calcium and vitamin supplements as part of the diet. Please read the supplement section below:

Dust insects with calcium supplement and vitamin supplement. As a rule, a growing juvenile's food should be dusted more often than an adult's. Be careful not to “over supplement” food, since too much calcium can cause gout and calcification.

The following is a possible supplementing schedule for this reptile. Dust food with a calcium/vitamin supplement once a week for adults, twice a week for juveniles. However, this is only a general suggestion -- the best specific schedule may vary depending on the supplement products used and other factors. Please consult product package directions, outside literature and a veterinarian to determine the optimal supplementing program.

Water & Humidity:

Moderate humidity levels should be maintained in the American Green Toad's enclosure with two daily mistings. However, the enclosure must also be well ventilated to prevent it from becoming overly humid. A water bowl must also be placed in the tank, and it must be shallow enough to allow the toad to climb out easily. Always use clean, fresh water free of chlorine and heavy metals. Do not use distilled water.