The Basics:

This is a very active, long-lived and even tempered lizard that has won a large following among reptile keepers in recent years. The Mali Uromastyx has a sweet, rather comical appearance with a face that resembles a turtle's more than a lizard's, and a distinct potbelly. Its most distinctive feature is its short, thick, spiked tail. Unlike many lizards, it is not arboreal so it spends most of its time on the ground, where it will often dig enthusiastically. However, it will climb on a rock to bask. It also appreciates hiding places. Males are larger and more colorful than females. Other species of uromastyx,
including the Ornate Uromastyx (Uromastyx ornata), share much in common with the Mali Uromastyx and have similar care requirements.

Enclosure:
The More Space The Better:

The Mali Uromastyx is a very active lizard and is an aggressive digger. Its enclosure should be wider than it is tall, and should offer the lizard ample room to move around. Avoid decorations that are too elaborate or fragile, since the Mali Uromastyx is liable to destroy them. Plants, both live and artificial, should also be avoided, since they are likely to be eaten. A Mali Uromastyx's enclosure should include flat, thin rocks for hiding and basking. Rocks should always be secured in place, since this active lizard can dislodge them, causing injury to itself. A screened top is advisable for this enclosure, since it can aid in keeping humidity levels low. The enclosure should be at least 4' x 2' x 2' or a 60-gallon aquarium for a single specimen. If two or more are housed in the same enclosure they may fight, so multiple animals in the same enclosure should be avoided. In general terms, this lizard needs as much space as can practically be provided.

Substrate:
Digging Material:

The Mali Uromastyx is an avid burrower, so the substrate in
its enclosure should provide opportunities for safe digging. Timothy pellets are a good substrate for this species. Caution:, swallowed sand can become impacted in a young Mali Uromastyx, so a paper substrate should be used for the enclosures of babies and juveniles. Sand can also be impacted with adults if too much is eaten, so it’s best avoided. Rocks or other large furnishings should be placed directly on and affixed to the surface of the enclosure rather than on the substrate. This will protect against the Mali
Uromastyx tipping over the rock or object and hurting itself when digging.

Temperature:
Keep It Hot:

A desert animal, the Mali Uromastyx needs a hot enclosure. Daytime ambient temperature throughout the enclosure should range from the mid 80ºs to low 90ºs Fahrenheit. The enclosure must have a basking area with a temperature around 120º degrees Fahrenheit. Heat can be maintained through a combination of lamps. Nighttime temperatures in the enclosure should be low 70ºs, and can be maintained by under-tank heaters, nocturnal infrared lamps or ceramic heat emitters, which do not produce light. (However, in most homes, the nighttime temperature can be maintained from normal room temperature without external heat sources.) Follow directions carefully with ceramic heat emitters, use fixtures with porcelain or ceramic sockets and to protect against fires, do not place them by dry wood or flammable fabrics. Thermometers should be positioned in the warmer and cooler areas of the enclosure as well as in the basking spot. A hiding place should be kept in both the warm and cool areas of the enclosure. Important - see the Note About Day/Night Light Cycles and Heating below.

Note About Day/Night Light Cycles and Heating:

All reptiles, including this pet, must have distinct day and night periods in their enclosure to maintain their biological rhythms. (See the lighting entry above for the specific length of this animal’s day/night cycle.) The day period must be light; and night must be dark. A timer should be used to set day/night periods. If a heat source is required to maintain correct nighttime temperatures, use heat mats or strips mounted below or on the side of the tank, infrared heat lamps, ceramic heat emitters, or a combination of these products. This will allow the enclosure to be heated while remaining dark. Follow directions carefully with all products. If ceramic heat emitters are used always choose fixtures with porcelain or ceramic sockets and to protect against fires do not place them by dry wood or flammable fabrics. Ceramic heat emitters must be kept out of the reach of children and all pets, including dogs and cats.

Humidity:
Keep It Low:

The Mali Uromastyx requires very low humidity levels in its
enclosure, which is not surprising given that this is a desert lizard. The reptile keeper should never spray a Mali Uromastyx or its enclosure. A shallow bowl of chlorine-free water can be
placed in an enclosure for brief periods but if it left in too long, it can raise humidity levels. Young lizards, breeding females and sick or injured animals may benefit from having a shallow bowl, but a healthy specimen will get all the water it needs from its food. An overly humid enclosure can cause respiratory problems.

The best specific schedule may vary depending on the supplement products used and other factors. Please consult product package directions, outside literature and a veterinarian to determine the optimal supplementing program.