The Basics:

Sometimes called the "rainbow lizard," or "rainbow agama," the Red Headed Agama is one of the most colorful lizards available to the pet trade (at least this is true of dominant males.) Mature males in breeding are a sight to behold with brilliant orange heads, indigo or black legs and backs, and blue-white tails accented by orange highlights. Males will also engage in head bobbing and other displays of dominance
when threatened, or to attract a mate. Reaching 14 inches and occasionally more in length, males are larger than females. Although males are territorial and should not be
housed together, this is a calm lizard overall and it often gets used to being handled by its keeper. The tip of the Red Headed Agama's tongue is covered with mucus glands, which
aid it in catching and holding insects. Care requirements for most other agamas are very similar to those for the Red Headed Agama.

Enclosure:
They Need A Lot Of Room:

The more space the Red Headed Agama is provided
with, the better. A male and two females should be housed in at least a 100-gallon aquarium, or a custom enclosure measuring 4' x 2' x 2'. The enclosure should be
relatively dry with numerous rocks, cork barks and logs for climbing, as well as hiding areas located in both the warmer and cooler zones.

Substrate:
A Variety Works:

Peat moss and orchid bark mulch work well as a substrate in the Red Headed Agama's enclosure, as do a variety of other materials. Aromatic woods, such as cedar and pine, must never be used. Substrate should be spot cleaned daily, and replaced completely every month.

Temperature:
They Like It Hot:

The enclosure's ambient temperatures should range from 80-
85 degrees Fahrenheit during the day, with a basking spot around 90 degrees. At night the temperature can be lowered to the mid to upper 70s. Providing a thermal gradient allows
the Red Headed Agama to regulate its body temperature by moving around the enclosure. A variety of combinations of overhead lamps and under-tank heat pads can be used to
maintain temperatures. To avoid burns, lamps should be screened off or positioned outside the enclosure. Using too powerful a bulb will make the enclosure too hot, and
could prove fatal to the animal. Nighttime temperatures can be maintained by using ceramic heat emitters, which do not produce light. Follow directions carefully with ceramic heat emitters, use fixtures with porcelain or ceramic sockets and to protect against fires, do not place them by dry wood or flammable fabrics. Thermometers should be positioned in the warmer and cooler areas of the enclosure as well as in the basking spot. Important - see the Note About Day/Night Light Cycles and Heating below.

Note About Day/Night Light Cycles and Heating:

All reptiles, including this pet, must have distinct day and night periods in their enclosure to maintain their biological rhythms. (See the lighting entry above for the specific length of this animal’s day/night cycle.) The day period must be light; and night must be dark. A timer should be used to set day/night periods. If a heat source is required to maintain correct nighttime temperatures, use heat mats or strips mounted below or on the side of the tank, infrared heat lamps, ceramic heat emitters, or a combination of these products. This will allow the enclosure to be heated while remaining dark. Follow directions carefully with all products. If ceramic heat emitters are used always choose fixtures with porcelain or ceramic sockets and to protect against fires do not place them by dry wood or flammable fabrics. Ceramic heat emitters must be kept out of the reach of children and all pets, including dogs and cats.

Diet:
Insects On The Menu:

In nature, Red Headed Agamas will eat insects as well as the
occasional small mammal or other lizard. However, in captivity, their diet should consist exclusively, or almost exclusively, of insects. Some keepers might want to feed their pet a day-old feeder mouse on occasion, but it is certainly not necessary. Never feed the animal wild-caught insects, as they can transmit disease. Commercially available and gut loaded
crickets, mealworms, silkworms, earthworms, roaches and kingworms can be fed to this lizard. Adults should be offered meals of 12-20 crickets 3-4 times a week. Juveniles should be offered 6-12 appropriately sized crickets every day. Important -- It is necessary to provide calcium and vitamin supplements as part of the diet. Please read the supplement section below

The following is a possible supplementing schedule for this reptile. Insects should be dusted with a reptile vitamin and calcium powder every third or fourth feeding. However, this is only a general suggestion -- the best specific schedule may vary depending on the supplement products used and other factors. Please consult product package directions, outside literature and a veterinarian to determine the optimal supplementing program.