The Basics:

The White’s Treefrog is one of the most popular amphibian pets, because it's fun to watch, relatively easy to keep, and long-lived. It also tolerates a wide range of temperatures and humidity levels, and readily accepts most food. This is a good frog for beginners, but like all terrarium pets, it requires extensive care from a committed owner. Also known as the "Dumpy Treefrog," it has a loveably plump appearance, which is accentuated by its tendency to gain weight, as well as the rubbery rolls on its skin. Unlike most frogs, it has horizontal, rather than vertical eye pupils. A communal animal, it does
better when kept in groups rather than alone. Females are larger than males. Captive bred specimens tend to be healthier than wild-caught animals.

Enclosure:
They Need Space:

Relatively large frogs that can be active, especially during
feeding times, White's Treefrogs need space. A pair of adults should be housed in at least a 40-gallon aquarium, with 10 gallons added for a third adult. The enclosure should be
vertically oriented to provide the frog with plenty of climbing opportunities. Branches and plants should be arranged diagonally in the tank to provide the frog with a chance to
climb and hide during the day. Climbing branches should be at least as wide as the diameter of the frog's body. The tank should be securely covered with a screen top for
ventilation.

Substrate:
Material That Is To Small Can Harm Them:

Organic mulch, paper and towels work well as substrates. Avoid small bark and gravel, since this enthusiastic eater can ingest them. Aromatic wood substrates like cedar must also be avoided, since they can cause serious and even fatal health risks. Substrates must be inspected daily, so soiled
material can be removed.

Temperature:
The Upper 70's Works Best:

White's Treefrogs like a daytime temperature in the upper 70s to low 80s Fahrenheit during the day, and slightly lower at night. They can, however tolerate cooler temperatures, as long as the thermometer is never allowed to dip below 70. If room temperature doesn't suffice to provide these readings in the enclosure, a low power (20-watt) incandescent bulb can be secured above the enclosure screen. Care should be taken to avoid external heat sources that are too powerful for the size of the enclosure, since this can result in overheating and lower humidity levels. In all cases, the temperature must be monitored carefully to be sure it doesn't rise too much. Never guess the temperature. Position two thermometers in the enclosure at branch level where the frog spends most of its time, one thermometer should be placed near the heat source, and the other in a cooler section of the tank. An enclosure should never be positioned in direct sunlight. Important - see the Note About Day/Night Cycles and Heating below.

Lighting:
UVB Exposure Is Essential:

Although they sleep during the day, White's Treefrogs are exposed to ultraviolet rays in their natural habitats. White’s Treefrogs should be exposed to supplemental UVB lighting, using a fluorescent bulb designed for a frog terrarium. Run lighting on a day/night on/off cycle. The fluorescent bulb should be replaced every six months. Glass blocks out UVB light, so overhead light sources should be kept behind a wire mesh cover, not a glass or acrylic tank top. Important - see the Note About Day/Night Cycles and Heating below.

Note About Day/Night Light Cycles and Heating:

This pet must have distinct day and night periods in their enclosure to maintain their biological rhythms. (See the lighting entry above for the specific length of this animal’s day/night cycle.) The day period must be light; and night must be dark. A timer should be used to set day/night periods. If a heat source is required to maintain correct nighttime temperatures, use heat mats or strips mounted below or on the side of the tank, infrared heat lamps, ceramic heat emitters, or a combination of these products. This will allow the enclosure to be heated while remaining dark. Follow directions carefully with all products. If ceramic heat emitters are used always choose fixtures with porcelain or ceramic sockets and to protect against fires do not place them by dry wood or flammable fabrics. Ceramic heat emitters must be kept out of the reach of children and all pets, including dogs and cats.

Diet:
They Have Very Hearty Appetites:

White's Treefrogs love to eat. As pets, they will gladly accept any insect offered. It's important to avoid overfeeding, since they can become obese. Insects caught outdoors should not be offered, since they can contain traces of pesticides. Gut loaded crickets are a good choice of food, as are cockroaches, moths and beetles, all should be dusted with supplements. Adults should be fed every other day, offering them 10-15 crickets per meal, while juveniles (under 3-inches) should be fed every day, offering them 3-6 crickets per meal. Offer only as much food as the frog can consume in a few minutes (2-8 crickets). The weight of a White's Frog can be judged by looking at the supratympanic ridges over its ears. This is the area where the frog stores fat. If the ridge is visible, the frog is underweight and should be offered more food. If the frog is overweight, the supratympanic ridges will cover the ear membrane. In this case portion size should be cut. Obese, over supplemented frogs have a shorter lifespan.Important -- It is necessary to provide calcium and vitamin supplements as part of the diet. Please read the supplement section below:

The following is a possible supplementing schedule for this reptile. Dust food with a calcium/vitamin supplement once a week for adults, twice a week for juveniles. However, this is only a general suggestion -- the best specific schedule may vary depending on the supplement products used and other factors. Please consult product package directions, outside literature and a veterinarian to determine the optimal supplementing program.

Water and Humidity:

White's Treefrogs don't need as much humidity as many other frogs. They can have a relatively high level of humidity, around 50-percent. The enclosure can be humidified every day with a light misting. Clean, fresh water free of chlorine and heavy metals should be used in misting and in a large shallow water bowl placed in the frog’s enclosure. Water level in the bowl should be relatively shallow, and a climbing branch should be placed in the bowl to make it easy for the frog to climb out of the water. Since maintaining proper humidity levels is so important to the health of this frog, it is essential to use a hygrometer to measure them in its enclosure.