Reptile Style: How to Set Up a Leopard Gecko Tanks

Start with the Proper Tank

Leopard geckos are native to dry, desert-like regions throughout the Middle East and Asia. To recreate these rocky, hilly areas, your tank should be long and wide versus tall and narrow. And to discourage any escape, it should have glass sides because leopard geckos can’t climb glass.

On a side note, wire and mesh cages are a no-no (covers are a yes-yes). They don’t hold heat very well, are more escapable than a glass tank and feet can get stuck in the wire.

To reiterate, here’s what you’ll need from Pet Supplies Plus to get started:

• 10-gallon tank – The minimum size for 1 juvenile leopard gecko (i.e., under 1 year old).
• 20-gallon tank – The minimum size for 1 adult leopard gecko (i.e., 1 year or older).
• Wire/mesh screen cover – Supports terrarium lights while keeping kids and other pets out of the tank. Never use solid lids because they’re bad for ventilation.

Hit That Temperature and Humidity “Sweet Spot”

Leopard geckos rely on the air around them to regulate their body temperature. So, just like in a desert, your setup needs hot spots and cool spots. The warmest part of their tank should be between 85° and 90° F. For the coolest area, try for 75° F. Plus, pay special attention to the humidity.

Reptile shedding issues (i.e., stuck shed) can be traced back to improper humidity levels in an enclosure. For a leopard gecko terrarium, target a humidity level between 60 and 70%. Substrates like coconut fiber, sphagnum and terrarium moss can help with humidity.

To hit these climate-related benchmarks, look no further than Pet Supplies Plus for:

• Under tank heaters
• Heat lamps – Also called “daytime bulbs” because (surprise) they’re for daytime use. These bulbs emit both heat and light, so choosing the right wattage could involve some trial and error due to variables like tank size, room temperature and what under tank heater you use. Consequently, heating elements may need to change with the seasons.
• Infrared heat lamps – For nighttime use to help regulate temperatures with or without an under tank heater. These lamps emit a color that don’t bother leopard geckos at night.
• Thermometers – One for the hot spot, one for the cool spot.
• Hygrometers – For measuring humidity levels.
• Digital thermostat – Controls temperatures by turning on/off heating and cooling devices.

Get the Lighting Just Right

While leopard geckos do sleep during the day, they’re crepuscular—not nocturnal. In other words, they’re most active around dusk and dawn instead of the middle of the night. That’s why it’s important to recreate natural sunlight patterns for them.

During the summer, give them 14 hours of light and 10 hours of darkness. In the winter, that ratio should be 12 hours light/12 hours dark. And don’t put the tank in direct sunlight or drafty areas. This can cause temperature and humidity issues.

For proper lighting, consider these options from Pet Supplies Plus:

• Automatic timer
• Dome lamp fixture – Single socket, reflective fixtures designed for reptile terrariums.
• Combo dual lamp fixture – Dual socket, reflective fixtures for daytime and nighttime bulbs.
• UVB bulbs– UVB light helps reptiles synthesize D3 vitamins.

Accessorize Like a Gecko Pro

Make good choices when it comes to the substrate you use as bedding. What’s nice is you have options like reptile carpet, flat stones, coconut fiber and sand. The latter two are especially popular—but not without some controversy.

The issue is impaction, i.e., the ingestion of solid masses that can block an animal’s digestive tract. Under normal conditions, reptiles swallow a minimal amount of natural debris. They will only eat sand and other substrates if they’re malnourished. Abnormal temperatures can also affect their metabolism and digestion. Consequently, a proper environment and diet is key to preventing this natural behavior of ingesting “incidental” amounts of debris from becoming a health issue for your gecko. If you still have concerns about using coconut fiber and sand, talk with your veterinarian.

On top of substrates, make sure your desert habitat has a few covered shelters called “hides.” These are where your leopard gecko can sleep, address shedding issues, digest their food or get some alone time. They should be small enough to feel cozy while big enough to fit your gecko’s whole body.

At Pet Supplies Plus, you can get all the comforts of home such as:

• Terrarium liner – Absorbent, non-abrasive reptile carpet that cuts to size as needed.
• Coconut fiber substrate – Ideal for mixing with sand when creating a bioactive tank or if live plants are part of your setup.
• Stone desert substrate – Great for burrowing and making tunnels.
• Dry hides – Put this in the tank’s hot spot. This is where they can warm up if they get a little chilly. An under tank heater makes this hide extra toasty.
• Humid hides– Helps with shedding. Fill with damp sphagnum or terrarium moss substrate and place it towards the middle of the tank, away from the hot spot (to prevent evaporation).
• Cool hides – Place in the tank’s cool spot. Like the name suggests, this is where they can cool down if they feel overheated.
• Food & water dishes – To prevent the water from evaporating, put the water dish in the cooler part of the tank. And keep any substrate out of their food and water.
• Décor– Including live or artificial reptile-safe plants, logs and other accessories can make their setup feel more natural and your gecko more sheltered.

The best way to recreate your leopard gecko’s natural habitat is by choosing the right tank, maintaining proper temperature and humidity levels, mimicking natural light patterns and adding some variety to their terrarium landscape. By following these pointers, you can give your leopard gecko the perfect home away from home. And don’t forget the crickets (also available at select Pet Supplies Plus stores).